Salta and Jujuy Provinces, November 23-28
Argentina's
far north feels distinctly different from the other areas we've visited
so far. There are new types of terrain, but we've had an
incredible variety all along. What's striking is a marked
change in the culture -- it feels much more "Peruvian" here.
("Bolivian" is probably more accurate -- we're very
close to Bolivia, while Peru is further northwest -- but Peru
is our only reference point.) People of indigenous descent now
clearly
outnumber Europeans, particularly in the rural areas, while it's been
the opposite everywhere else we've been in Argentina. The same souvenir
items we picked up during our Peru trip 1½ years ago are
widely available here, although Emily
insists
it's equally likely we were seeing northern Argentine souvenirs when
we were in Peru and just didn't know it. The north is certainly poorer than other parts of the country, but in general Argentina is relatively well-off and modern by Latin American standards. For example, the hipermercados, which top a pecking order of grocery stores that include (in descending order) supermercados, minimercados, mercaditos, and kioscos, are obscenely enormous even by North American standards. (For some reason we're amused by their "foreign foods" aisles with Skippy peanut butter and Paul Newman's salad dressing, although it makes perfect sense.) Order a coffee anywhere and you're served a small glass of fizzy water on the side to stave off dehydration -- now that's high culture; Starbucks take note. Here are some highlights from our time in the northern provinces:
1. A visit to the Mercedes service center. The brake warning light had been flickering on and off for a few
days. Communicating with the mechanics was typically difficult, with
multiple phone calls to the camper rental folks. In the end we were assured
that the brakes are fine and it's the warning light that's on the
fritz.
2. Major reprovisioning of food and other supplies at the hipermercado (followed by coffee with sparkling water on the side).
3. Attempting to exchange our near-empty propane tank for a full one, precipitating our
biggest wild-goose-chase yet, and that's saying something. Each place
we tried apologized for not having propane that day ("no gas hoy") and
sent us on to another that would surely have it, sometimes clear
across the city of half-a-million people. After perhaps ten tries over
several hours, about to give up, we went to one last place, well out of
town in the direction we'd come from originally. Undeterred by the explicit "no gas hoy" sign on the fence, we inquired beseechingly and they managed to locate a tank.
4. Finding
a store selling remote-control model airplanes. Tim has decided, in his
usual very decisive fashion, that a plane would be the ideal
early Christmas present and perfect compliment to our other outdoor
toys (currently a badminton set and soccer ball). We did finally locate
a suitable store, and waited the three hours for it to reopen after the
midday siesta. Their airplanes turned out to be expensive and not up to
Tim's requirements. He's now researching hobby shops in Santiago,
Chile.
As promised, Tim has begun a Geology Log, detailing mineralogical finds and purchases. He intends to extend the log as the trip continues. Next: Up and over the Paso Jama into Chile. The high point is a staggering 4800 meters in elevation (about 15,800 feet), the height of Mont Blanc. Let's hope those camper brakes really are in good shape. |
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